The parking brakes have actually not been holding the truck while parked in ~ an edge in the driveway. Everytime i go to transition out that park, I gain a according to CLUNK due to the fact that the truck has been locked onto the tranny instead of the parking brakes hold the truck.

You are watching: How to adjust parking brake cable on a chevy silverado

 

I recognize that has got to be bad on the tranny.

 

Anyways, ns have always know that transforming the brake pads to brand-new ones generally will make the parking brakes "tight" again. But it did not work for this truck.

 

Can somebody please aid with advice on just how to tighten the parking brakes?

 

Thanks.


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gm4yrs 11


Posted June 8, 2009

gm4yrs

EnthusiastMember 11235 postsLocation:CaliforniaGender:Male
Posted June 8, 2009

The parking brake adjustment is ~ above the rear disc, inside. Remove the behind disc, look for a star cylinder adjusting screw. Usage a 12 in. Micrometer to measure up drum, climate measure drum pads. Distinction should be .6604 mm or .02 in.


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CapitalTruck 107


Posted June 9, 2009

CapitalTruck

Senior EnthusiastMember 1071,605 postsLocation:Washington, D.C.Gender:MaleDrives:'13 Silverado Ext. Cab. 4wd 4.8L
Posted June 9, 2009

Just rotate the star screw in the direction of the "base" and also it will move the ebrake shoes out. Simply put them the end a little. If you have trouble getting the disc/drum assembly earlier on you probably moved the shoes out too much!


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xtmsports 1


Posted June 11, 2009

xtmsports

Enthusiast
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Member 174 posts
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Posted June 11, 2009
The parking brake adjustment is ~ above the rear disc, inside. Remove the rear disc, look because that a star cylinder adjusting screw. Use a 12 in. Micrometer to measure drum, climate measure drum pads. Difference should be .6604 mm or .02 in.

 

 

When you to speak to remove the behind disc, execute you typical remove the pads and also the rotor together well?


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gm4yrs 11


Posted June 11, 2009

gm4yrs

EnthusiastMember 11235 postsLocation:CaliforniaGender:Male
Posted June 11, 2009

Yes. Eliminate the caliper v pads, and then remove the disc. The parking brake is inside the disc, on the back side. Execute one next at a time.


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3 month later...

splat10 4


Posted October 10, 2009

splat10

EnthusiastMember 4127 postsLocation:Upstate NY
Posted October 10, 2009

check the cables. I've had actually to replace both of them numerous times because i never use the brake and inspection then stops working it. The cables frozen up then don't put enough force top top the brakes


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CapitalTruck 107


Posted October 11, 2009

CapitalTruck

Senior EnthusiastMember 1071,605 postsLocation:Washington, D.C.Gender:MaleDrives:'13 Silverado Ext. Cab. 4wd 4.8L
Posted October 11, 2009

I have had actually to use the mediate procedure stated above, it functions fine (turning that small collar). Simply a pain in the ass.


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1 month later...

ss502gmc 0


Posted November 17, 2009

ss502gmc

EnthusiastMember 0187 postsName:CoreyLocation:East Bridgewater,MaGender:MaleDrives:2006 Chevy 2500HD RCLB 6.0 Vortec
Posted November 17, 2009

Does anyone recognize if you can readjust the star native behind the backing bowl so ns dont have to remove rotors or some means to adjust the cable?


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Bowler807 0


Posted November 17, 2009

Bowler807

EnthusiastMember 0165 postsName:MikeLocation:Butler PAGender:MaleDrives:08 Sierra CC, 03 Deville DHS, 97 BMW vert
Posted November 17, 2009

Your parking brake might be OK.

 

I indicate you shot this very first before tearing off the brakes. Put the parking brake on before the transmission is shifted right into park. If this is no done, the truck might move enough in between park and the application of the parking brake to put press on the park device in the transmission.

 

Most people transition into park v their foot on the brake. Climate they use their brake foot to push the parking brake. That's one factor I like the hand parking brakes.

 

By placing the parking brake on first no activity should happen, offering of course the it is appropriately adjusted.


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alvocado 6


Posted November 18, 2009

alvocado

Enthusiast
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Member 6417 postsName:AllenLocation:Cincinnati, OHGender:MaleDrives:2011 GMC Yukon SLT
Posted November 18, 2009

It sounds choose your just option is to readjust using the star wheel top top the parking brake shoe. Traction the rotor, and adjust the star wheel so the shoe diameter increases. I adjust it out till the shoe simply drags on the rotor then earlier it turn off slightly. Friend can set the rotor in place and also spin to check clearance.


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jblakeney 9


Posted November 18, 2009

jblakeney

Senior EnthusiastMember 91,701 postsName:JboLocation:MississippiGender:MaleDrives:1999 GMC Sierra
Posted November 18, 2009

on my 99 1500nbs their is NO hole to get to the adjuster..... You need to take the rotor off..... Same on mine 01 2500nbs

 

I have actually had troubles with mine 99's ebrake since i acquired it up till last year..... I finished up purchase the pedal assy, all cables, adjusters, rotors, pads, and brand-new shoes.... It ultimately pissed me off last year... I changed everything...... The works an excellent now.... Once I purchased it the brake walk NOT hold at all, company department readjusted the cable whereby it goes native 1 cable to 2 cables (didnt work)

 

jbo


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4 year later...

Dan B. 2


Posted august 9, 2014

Dan B.

New MemberMember 21 postDrives:2004 Chevy Express
Posted august 9, 2014

I establish this is means after the over conversation.

See more: Is Burgundy And Maroon The Same Color, Difference Between Maroon And Burgundy

 

I have a 2004 Chevy refer 3500 through a 12,000 lb. Load rating, and also it's loaded. The parking brake top top this has held never satisfactorily, and also I have actually never thought about it once the van has been in the shop. I ultimately started in search of a solution and landed here.

 

The 2nd response around the automatic brake adjuster gained me headed in the right direction. Ns tried the procedure however was no able to get sufficient tension turn off the parking brake cable to enable the cable pulley alongside the parking brake pedal come re-engage in a much more forward position. Rather I engaged the parking brake pedal a pair clicks and also then clamped the parking brake cable where it emerged from the cable sheath close to the floor with a pair of vise grips. Then ns released the parking brake, this gave sufficient slack in the cable that the wheel re-engaged further forward on its catch. I repetitive this procedure once an ext and now the parking brake pedal does no go to the floor and I have a an extremely positive hold of my truck on a grade.