One morning this past winter, a friend"s 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier cranked yet failed come start. The starter appeared to be to run free, together if under no load. Removed of the valve cover revealed a very loose timing chain. This short article will cover removal of the valve cover and a prior engine tear down. Then the chain and also associated materials will be removed and also inspected. Exactly cam, piston and also crank timing will be re-established. A new kit the timing components will be installed. Climate we will re-assemble and test the work. There is always the possibility, on one interference engine prefer this, the valve damage may have actually occurred. A leak down test is right here, but we go not have the equipment. We also felt confident the the chain coming loose on start-up made valve damage unlikely, as opposed come under load. This is a daunting repair (we got a $1200 estimate) yet we perfect it successfully and I great you an excellent results if you tackle this job. The project at a glanceTools: Floor or scissors jack, supports, 10,13 15,18 and also 21 sockets, all sizes of ratchets, socket expansion bars,universal socket adapter, 10mm allen wrench modified come 3cm, big straight tongue screwdriver, pry bar because that locking the crank pulley, talk wrench, (inch and also ft lb) 10" long 10mm and 15mm box end wrenches, 18mm and 24mm wrenches, breaker bar(s) Materials: Lacquer thinner, engine oil, oil record panParts: time chain kit (Cloyes 9-4201S), time cover gasket (Fel-Pro TCS46041), crank wheel bolt, valve covering gasket collection (Fel-Pro VS50596R), if needed. Price of parts: time kit $129.53, time cover gasket $23.86, crank bolt $7, valve covering gasket, if needed, $25.27Time: 15-20 hours
1) Disconnect the battery. Security first.2) remove two 10mm nuts an installed on studs in the driver"s side of the valve cover. These secure the metal fuel lines.

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Remove these two 10mm nuts first
3) Loosen however don"t eliminate the studs. There are two 13mm nuts welded onto this studs. Currently there will certainly be room to move the accelerator cable clip to enable clearance because that the coil fill to be removed.4) Unplug the wiring connector to the coil load assembly.5) eliminate the four 10mm coil load mounting bolts.6) Wiggle and also lift the end the coil pack. The accelerator cable bracket must be loose enough to get past now.7) eliminate the accelerator cables native the bracket. The bracket will come in addition to the valve cover.8) It will be useful to remove two 10mm nutted studs securing the fuel rails at the radiator next of the engine. This provides an ext wiggle room come disengage the fuel lines native the brackets.9) Unclamp and also remove the rubber water tap going come the wait intake over the throttle body. Be cautious here together I broke it turn off of the waiting intake box. I would certainly recommend removing the air intake.10) Loosen and then eliminate all 14 of the 10 mm bolts hold the valve cover. There are four in the center now visible through the coil load removed.
There are four much more under the "Ecotec" labeled coil cover
11) Tap on the cover v a rubber mallet. Usage a small prybar in ~ reinforced point out on the cover to gently...and I mean gently, job-related the sheathe loose. Gentle repetition pays off. Hear for that little "pop."
Take care to tenderness pry in ~ a location with part "meat" ~ above it
12) pull the covering up and also now remove the 13mm stud ~ above the firewall side. There is a floor lug behind it that must come off. The former (radiator side) stud can stay on with the accelerator bracket.
The 13mm stud (on the left) have to be removed, the other just loosened.
13) Lift and pull the valve cover off the engine, relocating it towards the passenger side. Now the chain can be inspected. This one was very loose.
That"s means too loosened to work (guide gotten rid of for clarity).

2)Break the lug nuts ~ above the best front wheel and also jack it up, remove the wheel and collection it down on a block of timber or a stand.
3) remove the wheel well splash guard. This is complicated piece held in through 6-8 8mm hex head screws, and two panel fasteners. There are likewise several wires attached come the piece that need to be removed from holders. Keep track of every fasteners and the positions of wires to ensure efficient and also complete re-assembly.
4) remove the serpentine belt by inserting a 3/8" ratchet directly into the square hole (from below) and and rotating upward. Organize it over there while slipping the belt off.

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5) eliminate the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) bolt. Jam a pry bar between one of the 3 cross arms of the balancer and the optimal of the steering knuckle and also lock that in place. Location a 21mm socket on the bolt and use the greatest breaker bar girlfriend can obtain to rest the bolt. I used a 24" bar. There is plenty of transforming radius to break this very torqued bolt. It turns off in the conventional counter-clockwise direction.